Tips for your gravity gun need for your projet

Question from our customer:

There is a one-person shop for furniture. I am thinking of ameliorating my ability to finishing as I made my furniture in that shop. In my earlier work, to sprout the little quantity of varnish that is used for automotive, use of coatings that are catalyzed and a little urethane, I used a gun called Binks HVLP which is an off-the-shelf gravity-feed. Now I would like to do some woodwork and I need a gun that is right for this purpose. Also, to do the scaling and managing the financial plan of my procedure, I would need a gun called Binks gravity gun. There are some guns in the market which are labeled HVLP and others are not marked. These all look very alike which makes it difficult to spot the difference. Is there anyone who can help me to learn the difference between these two? And also can someone give me information on the size of the suitable tips?

From contributor L:

Standard Gun VS HVLP:

If you want an improved spray technique at economical rates, use the standard siphon gun. It may affect efficiency. On the other hand, Binks HVLP is better for spraying paint on the surface. It might use increased air. The benefit of Binks HVLP is that the blowback and over-spraying will below. It might be more expensive than a standard gun but it will provide you with the fine size of the droplet. Binks HVLP gun is an absolute pick for me over a siphon gun if I need a better spray technique. I might be willing to use the standard gun for high pressure if over-spraying isn’t a problem.

From contributor F:

I had a Binks HVLP from PC that I used for the purpose of gravity alteration. I discarded it for a model that is for siphoning purposes with the turbine. I got it from Smith spray equipment. I experienced a huge difference in work due to this swap. The finishing was incredible as I sprayed the four windows and some doors. The issue of overspray was not much. I got zero drops on me. There were more on my hands when I relieved the can pressure while coating as compared to spraying.

From contributor J:

There are 2 guns that I use. Both of them are Binks HVLP. One gun is large in size. It is Binks HVLP. Another one is small in size called mini Binks. They both are replicates of SATA products. Finishing quality with both of these is remarkable if they operate with lacquers that are precut, Campbell. They also work well with automotive paints. They are very sensitive. Their sensitivity is associated with the size of tips versus viscidity and also to pressure of air (which helps reduce the size of the droplet) versus overspray.

I also have 2 air dryers. The first one has a filter that is a standard one. It has a jar which is for collecting purposes. This jar is about 30 feet after a hose. The second dryer is called a desiccant dryer. It has a valve for regulating the pressure. The airflow is enhanced and the drop of the pressure is not excessive at the gun’s tip because I use an id hose of about 3/8 and couplers of huge sizes. On the Star HVLP, I use the tip of 1.7 mm and on the mini HVLP, I use 1.0 0r 1.1 tips.

From contributor M:

There is a type of gun that uses a reduced amount of air as compared to old guns. This type is known as Binks HVLP, a high volume low-pressure gun. The transfer rate is also slow. It means that in a precise time, you place a small amount of material. But in Binks HVLP, the rate of efficiency of transfer is also better as compared to old guns. In the old guns, a large amount of material is placed on. For fluid atomization, they also require high pressure. The overspray of these is also higher as compared to Binks HVLP guns.

There is also another gun, LVLP. It is the same as the RP (reduced pressure) guns. They gave increased output as compared to Binks HVLP. Their rate of efficiency is also better than old guns but as good when compared to HVLP. For someone who wants more improved output than HVLP, this is the gun you should go for. It doesn’t give waste as much as the old ones.

The type of guns that I have been saying about our conversion type. They are not a turbine. These guns can be attached to a normal compressor. There are some compressors that are small in size and are portable. For these compressors, there are some guns that are specifically designed for them. Some of these guns can start even with a compressor of 2 hp. The spectacles that I need will get from your supplier. Then I’ll meet with someone who vends equipment. That will help you in getting a proper setup.

From contributor C:

The recommendation I make is to inspect the consumption on the gun. Some guns of HVLP type uses as low as 4cfm and some guns use as high as 12cfm. The same thing applies to siphon guns. You cannot do the comparison of a small gun of one type with the other gun type of large size. It’ll be like the comparison of apple and oranges. It totally depends on the model details. There are many great models of the Binks HVLP guns which use air very much. Some of them use 10 and 12cfm or more. Due to this reason, it is recommended by many manufacturers to use large hoses along their HVLPs.

From contributor G:

With the help of specific designing, the Binka HVLP guns consume almost 25cfm on some guns. It means that the gun can experience starvation by Home Depot compressor. It usually happens due to the loss of volume, especially the disconnect you are using are quick in nature and aren’t HVLP rated.

The positive aspect of Binka HVLP is that it can increase the transfer efficiency of up to 50% on some tools. 20-25% is at which the Siphon gun will be best and from which 10-15% is transferred efficiently. Transfer efficient is a little higher in HVLP than in old guns (guns that are not marked HVLP). HVLP is approved by the OSHA. It is also following all the codes by EPA, as long it is used for local factors. If the airline is less than 3/8, don’t ever use the HVLP. This act can cause starvation of the gun.

From contributor F:

The reason I stopped using the old gun and started using a turbine system is exactly this. The PC gun which I was using, was built well but needed a 9cfm. This 9cfm isn’t going to be supplied by the compressor. Also due to the fitting which was ¼”, I was in doubt that I will receive the HV part of it. So I bought a turbine instead of a compressor of a bigger size. This is because it’ll be a waste.

From the original questioner:

I’m positively looking for the conversion guns and not for the turbines. My goal is to find that type of gun that is handy with my compressor which is small in size. My model is driven by a belt and has a 2hp cast-iron. Now I understand that this model is not ideal.

Now here is a question that needs to be answered: What would happen if your gun doesn’t pair perfectly with the compressor? Would it be wrong to stop for 20 to 30 seconds from time to time so it would catch up? Are only certain models with certain finishing is acceptable for this? I asked this question because many of you work in the production area where top priority is the speed. My work is custom and unrepeatable. I also do finishing which takes very little time. I use a spray gun which slows my work by 20% which is really not an issue for me. I’m mainly concerned with the finishing quality and easy to use the instrument.

On another hand, I was reading about the Astro guns and saw some positive comments about it. Hypothetically I was looking at the model of HVLP which uses 10cfm at 41-44 psi and also at the model of LVLP gun which uses 7.8cfm at 40 psi. Does anyone have any views about this?

From contributor M:

To the original questioner: You are an owner of the one-person shop, is that right? I had no idea that you want to know about the reviews on 25cfm guns. There are some exemptions and I was talking in common terms.

If you are spraying on the pieces which are small in size then you can use a combination of a small compressor and a large gun. But if you use this combination with a piece of large size or a panel or cupboard, then steam may end before the completion. You may need various coats of spray if you are using a material that is solvent-based. You’ll also need to keep a wet corner. The product on which you are working may subject to flashing or can have a problem with the over-spraying if you’ll let the compressor catch up by stopping it for a minute. Years ago, with the combination of a gravity conversion gun and a small compressor, I shot the products which were water-based. It wasn’t a big issue back then. But now I think the rules have changed with the water-based product in the last 10 years.

When you have a conversation with a salesman, you must have a piece of information about the output of your compressor. You must tell him what product you will shot at. The salesman can help with the Binks needle, outlet and Anest Iwata air cap sizes if you have the knowledge of viscosity.

From contributor F:

Sometimes the motor of your compressor runs massively and its duty cycle may surpass due to a piece of large size. This happens when cfm is not formed enough by the compressor so it would sustain with the gun. Now consider the following example: the compressor which is a common PC 6-gallon pancake when used frequently with the nail gun gives almost 3cfm at 45psi. The duty cycle of this compressor is 50%. It means that the motor of the compressor mustn’t operate more than half the time in 1 hour. The conversion gun of PC HVLP needs 9cfm. When you are spraying the tank, low the pressure very fast. Due to this act, the compressor now has to operate continuously and this maintains the pressure up. Soon according to your wish, the gun pressure is below 45 psi. Now until the recharge of the tank is done, you have to stop. On another note, you might burn your motor if you do this process excessively.

This process of sparing the time so the motor will cooldown is infuriating. This time won’t be frustrating if you do something else. But doing this technique makes it quite difficult to get a large piece done. I might keep the motor working longer but it would be a risk. In the end, I bought a turbine unit. This purchase was worth it.

From contributor J:

I redid the wiring of an old compressor which was Sears 10 gallon to 220. I did this when I start to use HVLP. When I had a big job, I used the compressor which was of the same size as a compressor that is used for nail guns. I carried it on my back. It was also very economical as compared to a compressor of high capacity. If you place a house fan in that position where it is directed at the compressor it keeps the temperature low.

From contributor C:

The problem that often happens with the compressor is the Heat. It is very difficult to keep the water out of the compressor when it operates for a while. The air in this is hot. I have an Astro gun for this situation. It tweaks a lot of air at 44psi. But according to my personal experience, it works better at 30psi or maybe less. At this pressure, the compressor uses a reduced amount of air maybe half as much.

This gun is my favorite. Through DeVilbiss, you can purchase a bag adaptor kit for this gun. This will help you by closing the zip-lock bag that is present in the cup. It’s proven to be very nice. It performs the cleaning of the breeze and you can also spray both sides through it.

From the original questioner:

I’ll see the results of ITW Ransburg gun soon because I have ordered it. Is the DeVilbiss bag adaptor easily available in the market or is there a unique part number for its purchase?

From contributor C:

It is very easy to purchase. If you go to the internet and search spray gun world and explore their site by pressing the liner kit icon, you’ll see those bags. They are very economical. Their price is $20. Sears gives the 10 bags for $10. You can buy the kit as a bargain.

From the original questioner: There is a gun called Astro conversion (1.7 tips) which I like. The compressor which I have is 2hp. It is fixed to top out at 110 psi. The gun is ranked for when the regulator of the diaphragm is fixed at 41-44 psi. Due to this, before the compressor turns on I can widely spray for 30 seconds. By keeping the gun widely open, the pressure of the tank will be maintained at 95 psi for an indefinite period with the help of a compressor. When I’ll stop the spraying, the pressure backup will be built fully by the compressor and will be turned off for about 30 seconds. This setup is not perfect for the whole kitchens because it will be underpowered. It’ll be a good fit for small projects.

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