Easy way to to make water pump well without electricity

Pump water with gravity alone. No electricity or gasoline. 

Sounds crazy or impossible? Do not worry; it did not obey the laws of physics, but I will try to explain the operation later. This instructable shows how to build a water pump that is simple enough not to require energy input in addition to the water that flows from a higher point to a lower position. Most pumps constructed of PVC, with some bronze pieces thrown in for flavor. I can be the source of all sections of the local hardware store (Lowes) for a little under $ 100.

The pump will require a drop of at least 3-5 inches to have a proper functioning state. The level that the pump can lift the water depends on the water head (Total decrease in water will make). Before you really can do a lot, you have to go out and buy some stuff. In case you need to build, print out this list and head to your hardware store plumbing dept.


· 1-1/4 inch valve

· 1-1/4 inch tee (buy two of these)

· 1-1/4 inch union

· 1-1/4 inch brass swing check valve

· 1-1/4 inch spring check valve

· 3/4 inch tee

· 3/4 inch valve

· 3/4 inch union

· 1-1/4″ x 3/4″ bushing

· 1/4 inch pipe-cock

· 100 psi gauge

· 3/4″ x 6″ -nipple

· 4″ x 1-1/4″ -bushing

· 4 inch coupling

· 4″ x 24″-PR160 PVC pipe

· 4″ PVC glue cap

· 3/4″ x 1/4″-bushing

· The parts list comes directly from the site Clemson. I suggest you look for assistance in identifying what each piece looks like if you are unsure. I’m also not sure that 100 PSI gauge, or all the things that are possible, necessary. This will probably go down in price a little good, and I have not found a need for it on my pump. Related pieces are 100 PSI gauge, 3/4 “Tee, 3/4” x 1/4 “bushing, 1/4” pipe chicken. Four points are not required. But to have them if you like.

Note Connections via instructable Read and understand all the pipe-fitting connections that will occur before the material purchased. Stores may not have what you are looking for, and you may have to improvise. I ended up getting a few different sections because my local store does not have the right parts I was looking for. This usually comes in the form that does not have a threaded fitting, but it has a smooth pipe connection or vice versa. No problem, you can find out.

Installation materials needed

• a long section of 1-1 / 4 inch PVC ( ‘drive pipe,’ connecting the pump to the water supply)

• Garden Hose (end of the male thread to 3/4 “union, pumped water supply)

• Bricks, blocks, stones to sustain and anchor the pump

• Shower Drain assembly 

to install pipes for water supply

Material build and Tools

• PVC Primer (I use Oatey Purple Primer)

• PVC cement (Oatey again, just what they have)

• Teflon Tape Thread

• hacksaw

• Tape measure

• Clamps

• pocket knife

• Lab gloves (made chemicals on the pipe and out of your hand)

• Bicycle Pump (to inflate innertube that)

Now that you’ve bought a lot of stuff, lay them on the desk (or floor) so you can begin to see how the pumps run together. Look for visual images on this.

You’ll have to cut a long section of pipe into sections shorter to go between the respective fittings. 

The next step highlights the above part

Step 3: Cut the connecting pipe into pieces

You need to connect each small unit with some pipes, so set about cutting off segments of shares 1-1 / 4-inch pipe with a hacksaw that. They do not need to belong, just enough to reach to each fitting, perhaps with spaces between (no much).

Smooth the edges of the cut pieces with sandpaper. Get all the thorns off, clean it up, give it a nice bevel or rounded edges. The idea here is to make this as smooth as possible, to reduce the possibility of cracks developing with repeated pressure waves that occur in the pipeline. Clean both ends, and make cuts to join all 1-1 / 4-inch fittings.

While working, you might as well clean the edge on other parts of the pipeline, although it will be less critical for other parts. Now that you’ve got all the segments connected, you can test in accordance by putting the 1st part together just for the check. 

Do not worry if the pipe looks a bit tight when you’re a test fitting everything. Primary and cement help them go together when you do the real assembly.

Step 4: Fun With Chemistry

Take your laboratory gloves, tongs, primer, cement, two parts of their fittings, and connecting pipes. Then head to a well-ventilated room, because of improper primer and cement aromatherapy. At least not the kind of good.

For those of you who have not built anything of PVC in the past, it was not too difficult. The primary function for cleaning of PVC bit and get ready to bond with cement. Cement to hold everything together.

Most PVC chemical bottles have a cap with a small brush attached to them. Taking the lid off the primary, and carefully coat the outer face of pipe, with a band of about 2 “wide starting at the end. Take care not to drip primer on anything you do not want to permanently purple. After the pipe is coated, doing the same thing for the inside fitting that you are planning on cementing up. 

Close up of primary bottle.

Opening a bottle, which should also have a small brush in it. With this brush, go to the area that you painted with a primer. Do not rush, but you want to get the pipe together before the cement dries. You have time, so focus on getting a good layer of cement on both pieces.

Once you’ve got the cement where you want it (and hopefully only a few in which you do not) fit the pipe into the fitting, it should slide without too much resistance. When working on the pump, I feel that it is best to clamp up each piece after I had gathered it, which means the pipe can not slip back at all. It may not be necessary, but I think it helps.

Most pieces joined together in a way that is quite obvious; few things need to be considered: the spring-loaded check valve, there is an arrow, and you will want this point to the tee key will have a 4-inch pipe (room air) on it. This allows water to pass through to the main tee, as you wish. With brass valves swing, the arrow should be pointing in the direction of the tee, and the mainline pipe.

To the next step for sequence assembly!

Step 5: Piece by Piece (Main Line)

I started at one end of the pump, with a 1-1 / 4 “valve at 1-1 / 4” union. You can choose to start with the other pieces, but I found that the formation of the mainline gave me something easy to clamp up. After 1-1 / 4 “to 3/4” bushing on the tee, you can glue to the end of the assembly separately, and then connect it to the main assembly with a threaded 3/4 “pipe.

When connecting the threaded part, be sure to wrap some Teflon tape around the threads. This will help the joint operations and prevent leakage at this joint.

Step 6: Piece by Piece (Pressure Chamber)

Now you need to collect the pressure chamber. You collect a large section of pipe, caps, adapters, bicycle tubes, and a bicycle pump. Using a pump, partially inflate the bicycle tube. Do not pump it all the way, just enough that the tube slippery. We need the air inside the pressure chamber to act as a spring.

The bicycle tube prevents the pressure chamber from becoming wet during operation. Water-soluble in water. He did so much easier at high pressure. (This is related to how commercially produced carbonated soft drinks) Bicycle tubes were held a few planes from ever contacting the water (in theory), and prevents air from done from the pressure chamber.

After this, the cement at both ends, and clamps that sucker up. After it dries, go ahead and glue the whole assembly to the pipe coming from the main tee.

Notes on possible improvements/modifications:

Some may choose to eliminate the bike tube, and only drain pump out every once in a while. It’s possible. It also may well mount the Schrader valve to the closed end of the pressure chambers to refill it. Whatever suits your taste, but this setup works well for me so far.

Step 7: Optional Pressure Gauge Assembly

If you want to use a pressure gauge, you’ll mount that after the main tee. 

The setup is pretty apparent. 

This follows the simple link of the gauge to pipecock, nipple to the bushing, tee. All threaded connections must be well wrapped with the Teflon tape. This must be tightened well.

This installation requires cutting 3/4 “x 6” pipe nipple half, creating two pieces, threaded at one end and smooth on the other hand, to go down into the arms of the tee. Cement.

Step 8: The Last Piece (for Pump Anyway)

Install a brass swing check valve, is not yet done. Ensure that the flapper (I like to call it) is hanging down when the pump in the upright position (everything is pointing up). Everything just had to thread into the bushing that you have been cemented into the end of the 1-1 / 4 “pipe. Pretty simple.

Step 9: Pumping

Now that you have a collection seemed rather aggressive PVC bit, it’s time to make it do something. You must attach the standpipe (long section of 1-1 / 4 “pipe) to 1-1 / 4” union with the cement, and then decide how you want to connect the other end to your water source. My first method is chopped up milk jugs. Honestly, I just wanted to see it pump water.

My design then is to mount the shower drain at the end of the standpipe and fix that for styrofoam cooler that I’ve cut a hole that fits in. Served cold as a collector for the pipe, and everything worked pretty well. In a more permanent installation (to be completed by next spring), I will attach it to the shower drainboard that can be fixed in higher water supply, and things will be okay.

Collecting a garden hose, pipe stands you and your pump, then pull all this out to the waterfall or what you need. Bring a friend or two. 

When you install it permanently (or semi-permanent), you will want to find the right place to anchor to, maybe not in the river. You have to have it placed at a low level as possible, but keep in mind that if the river floods and/or tree to wash it down, it will take you a little better with the pump off.

Step 10: Hows it works?

So here apply to the operation of the pump.

As the pump cycle begins, the water flows down the standpipe, and through the swing check valve. Water began to flow faster and faster around the flapper in the valve, until friction pulls the flapper up, slammed shut. This method will lead to a pressure spike in the pump body, such as running water standpipe at some speed no longer have a place to go. The pressure is relieved by some of the water that flows across the check valve spring, more to the side of the pressure chamber of the pump. After passing through the swing check valve, it can not be returned and should stay there. When the pressure differential drops the check valve spring, the valve will close, and the water will stop flowing through it. Low pressure will allow the swing check valve to open again, starting the cycle again.


So what if this does not happen? 

What should be done in such a situation is to check and make sure that it is “on.” That is, make sure both 1-1 / 4 “and 3/4” valve is open.

Sometimes the water would flow out of the swing check valve, the valve will slam shut, but nothing will happen. If this happens, press the flapper in the valve to open it again and let the cycle begins again. In theory, the pumps require some pressure back-up (that comes from the pressure side of the tank) to operate, but I never had a problem getting mine away with just a few necessary tapping and tamper.

Now that it works, can you make it work better? You will find that there is a maximum height to which the pump can deliver water. Be patient when trying to see it, because it takes a little while for the pump to achieve the required pressure to raise water higher and higher. There is a formula that will tell you how high you can theoretically pump water-based chief source of water. Do not hesitate to see them.

Tuning ram pump mostly involves varying the speed of the water yielding a swing check valve cover. A higher water velocity will result in more significant pressure spikes, which allows you to pump to a greater height. But it will also lead to a slower cycle, so you pump more slowly. If closing the valve on the water velocity is lower, it will take a little time for the water to reach that speed so that the pump will cycle faster, and water is pumped faster. However, you won’t be able to pump high. This is like the trade-off that needs to be kept in mind. With the method, it will prevent interruption 24 hours a day, so it combines with the storage tank, you can get a decent supply of water was built.

To enhance this particular design, you take advantage of how gravity works on the flapper. When the direction of the valve is direct up, gravity holds the flapper down; hence, the water must flow through the flapper faster to generate enough drag to raise the full weight of the flapper. By turning the pump on the mainline, you put this flapper degree of freedom in the corner with the force of gravity, making it less necessary to move the flapper drag. You can work out all of this quite easily with a little trigonometry, but I feel it will serve little use in the field. Just play around with it, you have to find a position that works well for your application.

No power?

Well, no. This pump derives its power from the potential energy of water uphill and with wasting (not in a bad sense) most of the water flowing through the pipe stand. Only a fraction of the water pump that travels to that pipe. But it’s okay if you have a river that has been flowing down the hill. Before, you did not do anything with all the potential / kinetic energy. Now you. Hooray for you!

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